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Details of the Lightspeed Engineering Plasma II Plus ignition installation:
My engine is an IO360-C1E6, which is a slightly different beast than your run-of-the-mill IO360. The nose is larger than other cases, and it has a couple of unused bosses for who knows what. I had to file down just a bit on the the case to fit the circuit board (after consulting with Klaus). A few hundreths of material was removed, just enough to allow the trigger board to set back over the nose of the case.
(The board is pulled forward just a tad for this photo.)
To ensure that the 1/4-20 mounting bolts were tapped square to the flange face, I made a little jig thingy out of a block of wood. The block was drilled on the press to fit the O.D. of K&S aluminum tube (hobby store) that had an I.D. just slightly larger than the tap drill size. This guided the tap drill perpendicular to the flange. The LSE instructions said to drill 5/8", but I was nervous about punching through to the slinger gallery, so I went 9/16". This turned out to be fine, as the trigger board gets spaced out away from the flange a bit anyway.
The tape on the drill is the "depth gauge"
After the mounting screws are tapped, you have to space out the trigger plate with washers so that there is .020-.070 clearance between the triggers and the flywheel. To get this spacing, I used blobs of soft wax on the trigger plate, mounted up and torqued down the flywheel (make sure you get the index bolt hole right, it's marked with a "0"), then pulled the flywheel and mic'ed the wax. This gave me the amount of shim needed. One AN thick washer and one AN thin washer did the trick. A piece of cardboard and some masking tape was used as a washer installation tool.
Here you see the trigger plate partially bolted in place, and you can just barely see one of the spacer washers. The circuit board hangs back over the areas relieved on the case flange. In the final assembly Loc-Tite was used, as well as a inner-tooth lockwashers for good measure.
Finally, I routed the trigger wires. The wire holders are made out of thin aluminum and silicone tube.
The LSE ignition system is FABULOUS. The engine runs incredibly smooth. I don't know if it added speed or not, but for sure starting, especially hot starts, is a breeze. At runup, you will get a normal drop when switching to mag-only. But when you switch to LSE-only, there is NO drop at all!
I cross-ref'd the standard per-LSE-spec (II+ system) Denso
W27ESR-U plugs to
NGK BR9ES. NGKs are much easier to find at auto parts stores, you can even
get them at WalMart. Recently I moved up to a slightly hotter plug. The
W27/BR9's are about as cold as you can get, and they were running just a tad
too "black" for my taste. So now I am using NGK BR8ES. It's only a bit
hotter than the BR9, it's still way out at the cold end of the range. Plus
the ferrule is of the fixed type, and can't back off.
With these plugs, my engine runs even smoother than before, if you can believe that!! They are showing a very nice tan color. NGK's cost a whopping $1.xx each (depending on your shopping abilities) so what the heck I throw 'em away every 25 or 50 hours or so, regardless.
I haven't tried the fancy stuff, i.e. the
iridium/platinum/unobtanium/red-kryptonite type of plugs. My understanding
is that the primary advantage to these are longevity. I can't see keeping
them in long enough to justify 5-8 times the price of standard plugs.